Atlas of China
Puzhehei 普者黑Pǔzhěhēi
Lotus-filled lakes winding between hundreds of green karst hills, explored by boat
- Best time
- Jul–Aug (lotus); also Sep–Oct
- Time needed
- 1–2 days
- Days to budget
- 1½ days
- Stay in
- Qiubei
- Region
- Yunnan
- Type
- Nature
- Listed as
- 5A scenic area
Why go to Puzhehei
Puzhehei is a lake-dotted karst landscape in south-east Yunnan, where dozens of linked lakes and channels wind between hundreds of steep, rounded limestone hills. In summer the shallows turn into vast lotus fields, and visitors drift between Yi villages by boat, then climb Qinglong Shan for sunset over the water. It is a national 5A scenic area, hugely popular with Chinese holidaymakers and still little known abroad.
The story
The name comes from the Yi language and is usually translated as 'a place full of fish and shrimp'. Each summer the local Yi hold the Flower Face Festival, when friends and strangers alike smear each other's faces with a fragrant soot; it now runs for a month from mid-July.
What to see at Puzhehei
- Puzhehei Lake 普者黑湖: The winding river-like lake, about 21 km long and no more than a few hundred metres wide, linking the chain of smaller lakes. The Yi name means a place of many fish and shrimp.
- Qinglong Hill 青龙山: A short climb with several viewing platforms over the lakes, popular for sunrise and sunset. Mist and cloud often fill the valleys in the early morning.
- Xianrendong Village 仙人洞村: A Yi village on the water's edge with its own cave and lake views. It is a calm place to wander at dusk after the day boats stop.
- Qinglong Cave 青龙洞: A cave at the foot of Qinglong Hill that visitors can enter by boat, one of several open caves in the scenic area.
How to visit Puzhehei
Boats are the main way to see the lakes, with several boarding points and routes that visit the villages and caves. A half day covers a boat ride and Qinglong Hill; a full day adds a village wander and the caves. The lotus is in bloom in summer, and early morning is the best time on the water.
How to get to Puzhehei
High-speed trains from Kunming South reach Puzhehei station in about 1–1.5 hours. The station sits just south of Qiubei town, about 20 km from the lakes, and a taxi to Puzhehei or Xianrendong village takes around half an hour.
Where to stay
Stay in Xianrendong or Puzhehei village beside the lakes for sunrise and sunset boats and the hill, or in Qiubei town if you need more choice; the stations are on the town side.
What to eat
- Lotus-leaf omelette 荷叶煎蛋: Eggs fried in or with fresh lotus leaves, a lakeside dish in Xianrendong village.
- Lakeside fish 荷花鱼: Local fish usually cooked in a spicy sauce, a favourite in the village restaurants.
Tips for visiting Puzhehei
- Boat trips and sightseeing buses are ticketed separately from the lake area; a boat trip is the best way to see the lakes and lotus fields up close.
- Stay a night in Puzhehei or Xianrendong village and climb Qinglong Shan, about 30 minutes up steep steps, for sunrise or sunset over the lakes.
- Book rooms well ahead for July and August, when the lotus and the Flower Face Festival draw crowds and prices climb; if you walk through a village during the festival, expect a sooty face.
Nearby
- Luoping Rapeseed Fields 罗平油菜花海 90 km
Seas of golden rapeseed flowers swirling around karst peaks and spiral terraces - Stone Forest 石林 110 km
A maze of limestone blades and towers you can lose yourself in
On the map
Open Puzhehei on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.
Open Puzhehei on the map