Qikou Ancient Town and Lijiashan Village 碛口古镇·李家山村Qìkǒu Gǔzhèn · Lǐjiāshān Cūn

Why go to Qikou Ancient Town and Lijiashan Village

On the east bank of the Yellow River in Lin County, Qikou prospered in the Ming and Qing as a river port where cargo from upstream was unloaded and sent on overland; its old streets of warehouses, shops and merchants' courtyards still line the river below the Black Dragon Temple on the highest point of town. Walk the lanes and climb to the temple, then go a short way south to Lijiashan, where merchant families lived in yaodong (cave dwellings dug into the loess hillside) that rise more than ten levels up the slope, the roofs of one row serving as courtyards for the next.

The story

Qikou takes its name from qi, a stony shoal: where the Qiushui River meets the Yellow River, gravel washed down by the tributary forms the Datong rapids and narrows the channel from about 400 metres to about 80, so boats from upstream unloaded here and goods went on by camel caravan. Outside the old warehouses you can still see the stone platforms, more than a metre high, built for loading camels.

What to see at Qikou Ancient Town and Lijiashan Village

• Black Dragon Temple Opera Stage 黑龙庙戏台: The Ming stage at the highest point of town is built over three arched gateways, and from it you can see the Qiushui River join the Yellow River. Legend says buried jars under the stage amplify the sound.
• First and Second Streets 头道街·二道街: The old lanes along the river have been restored to their former look, with former draft banks, shops, warehouses and escort agencies marked, and residents still living and selling red dates and snacks at their doors.
• Lijiashan village 李家山村: Merchant families lived here in cave houses stepped up the hillside for more than ten levels, one family's roof forming another's courtyard. Look for the stone door drums, the carved lintels and the upper-floor embroidery rooms.
• Xiwan village 西湾村: About 1 km from the old town, a village of one Chen clan whose five stone paths run up the slope and are named after the five elements, with courtyards linked from house to house.

How to visit Qikou Ancient Town and Lijiashan Village

Climb to the Black Dragon Temple first for the view, then walk the two river streets. Xiwan is about 1 km from town, and Lijiashan lies a little farther, reached by road. A half-day takes in the town and one village; a full day lets you wander both villages, though many courtyard doors are shut.

How to get to Qikou Ancient Town and Lijiashan Village

Trains from Taiyuan South reach Lüliang station in Lishi in about 1.5 hours. Qikou is about 50 km west of Lishi by road, roughly an hour by taxi or hired car; local buses from Lishi are slower, so check departures on the day.

Where to stay

Overnight in Qikou old town or in a converted cave house in Lijiashan, both of which have guesthouses; staying means you can see the river and the stone streets after the day visitors leave.

What to eat

• Oat-flour liangpi 莜面凉皮: Cold noodle sheets made from oat flour, a staple of the loess highlands.
• Elm-seed steamed buns 榆钱窝窝: Spring buns made with the seed pods of the elm tree, mixed with flour and steamed.
• Red dates 红枣: Dried Yellow River red dates are sold at doorways in the old town and make a typical local gift.

Tips for visiting Qikou Ancient Town and Lijiashan Village

• Stay the night: Qikou has dozens of guesthouses, and some of Lijiashan's cave homes have been converted into guest rooms.
• At the Black Dragon Temple, look over the river to Shaanxi on the far bank; the temple's opera stage is said to owe its acoustics to large jars buried beneath it.
• Add Xiwan, about 1 km from town, a village of a single Chen clan whose stone-paved lanes are named after the five elements.

Nearby

• Xiaoxitian Temple 小西天 110 km
  A small hilltop hall crowded with nearly 2,000 painted clay Buddhist figures
• Yulin Old Town and Zhenbeitai 榆林古城·镇北台 120 km
  A four-tier Ming watchtower on the Great Wall and an old garrison street under six towers

Also within 30 km: Yellow River Eastward Crossing Site, Wubu 黄河东渡 (under 10 km), Joint Defence Army Headquarters Site, Shayuan 临县陕甘宁晋绥联防军指挥部旧址 (under 10 km), Yiju Temple 义居寺 (20 km), Central Rear Committee Site, Shuangta 临县中央后委机关旧址 (20 km), Wubu Stone City 吴堡石城 (20 km), Xiangyan Temple, Liulin 香严寺 (20 km).

On the map

Open Qikou Ancient Town and Lijiashan Village on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.

Learn more

• Wikipedia: Lin County, Shanxi