Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang from Changsha: sandstone pillars and a river town

Zhangjiajie’s forest of sandstone pillars, three thousand of them rising from the mist, needs two full days: one in the national park among the pillars, one on Tianmen Mountain with its cable car from the city and the cliff walks. Fenghuang, three hours away, is a Miao and Tujia town of wooden houses on stilts over the Tuo River, lit up at night. Changsha, the Hunan capital, is the gateway by high-speed train and flight, and its food is reason enough to spend the first day there.

Day by day

Laid out by the atlas's trip planner from the stops below, with the trains and flights in its tables; open it on the map to change the days, the order or the stops.

1. Day 1 · Changsha

   • Changsha the city

2. Day 2 · Zhangjiajie

   • High-speed train Changsha → Zhangjiajie West, 1 h 45 min (G2446, 44 a day); about 2 hours door to door, ¥166. Compare ways
   • Zhangjiajie National Forest Park

3. Day 3 · Zhangjiajie

   • Zhangjiajie National Forest Park continued

4. Day 4 · Fenghuang

   • Zhangjiajie National Forest Park continued
   • High-speed train Zhangjiajie West → Fenghuang Gucheng, 51 min (G6061, 18 a day); about 1 hour door to door, ¥84. Compare ways

5. Day 5 · Fenghuang

   • Fenghuang Ancient Town

Why this order

Changsha has the connections, Zhangjiajie the long days, and Fenghuang the quiet end; the new high-speed line links all three in that order.

When to go

April to June and September to November; summer is hot and wet, and the pillars vanish in winter fog, though snow on them is a sight.

Good to know

• The park ticket is valid for several days; stay inside Wulingyuan to be at the lifts before the tour groups.
• Tianmen Mountain’s cable car starts in the city centre; book a morning slot in high season.
• Fenghuang’s riverside is loud until late; a room away from the water sleeps better.

Before you go

• Visas and visa-free entry Can I visit China without a visa?
• Paying for things How do I pay for things in China without a Chinese bank account?
• Internet and apps Will Google and my other apps work in China?
• Trains and 12306 How do I book train tickets in China with a foreign passport?
• Book popular sights early Which sights in China need booking in advance, and how?
• When to go When is the best time to visit China?

On the map

The map opens with these 3 stops in a trip; "Plan my days" lays out the same days and lets you move stops, change the days each gets, or choose where you arrive and leave.

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• Two weeks in China: Beijing, Xi’an, Chengdu, Guilin and Shanghai 14 days · Beijing, Xi'an, Chengdu, Leshan, Guilin and Shanghai