Luodai Ancient Town 洛带古镇Luòdài Gǔzhèn

Why go to Luodai Ancient Town

Luodai, on Chengdu's eastern fringe, is the heart of Sichuan's Hakka community, and many residents still speak the Hakka language. Its real treasures are a set of nationally protected Qing-era guild halls built by settlers from Guangdong, Jiangxi and Huguang (Hubei and Hunan), with carved opera stages and quiet courtyards. Expect a busy, commercial main street of snack stalls and souvenir shops; the halls and side lanes are the reward.

The story

Local legend says the name, 'dropped belt', comes from a jade belt that Liu Shan, the last emperor of Shu Han, let fall into a well here. The town's Hakka character dates from the 18th century, when a Qing resettlement drive known as 'Huguang fills Sichuan' brought waves of migrants, who built guild halls to honour their home provinces.

What to see at Luodai Ancient Town

• Guangdong Guild Hall 广东会馆: Also called Nanhua Palace, built in 1746 by Hakka settlers from Guangdong, and one of the best-preserved halls. Its carved gate and courtyards show how migrants recreated home in Sichuan.
• Huguang Guild Hall 湖广会馆: Built in 1746 and also known as Yuwang Palace, it served settlers from Hubei and Hunan, with an opera stage in its courtyard.
• Jiangxi Guild Hall 江西会馆: Built in 1753 by Jiangxi migrants; it too has a stage, and it is part of the national protected group of halls.
• Western Hakka Museum 西部客家博物馆: A museum set in a round, tulou-style building, telling the story of the Hakka migration into Sichuan and their customs.
• Octagonal Well 八角井: The old well tied to the town's name legend, in the middle of the old streets; it is a small, quick stop.

How to visit Luodai Ancient Town

Walk the main street and its seven side lanes, dipping into the guild halls, which stand a few minutes apart. Take in the Hakka museum for the story behind them. Two or three hours covers the halls; stay on to the evening for the lanes when the day-trippers leave. The Longquanyi district museum in town is closed on Mondays.

How to get to Luodai Ancient Town

Direct express buses run from Wuguiqiao bus station in eastern Chengdu, or take Metro Line 4 to Xihe and change to a local bus; allow about an hour each way. A taxi from the city centre takes around 40 minutes.

Where to stay

Most visitors come as a day trip from central Chengdu, but a night in a courtyard inn in the old town gives you the lanes when the crowds have gone. Otherwise, stay in central Chengdu, about an hour away.

What to eat

• Heartbreak jelly noodles 伤心凉粉: Cold starch-jelly noodles with a very spicy, numbing dressing, the best-known dish of the Luodai Hakka kitchen.
• Oil-scalded goose 油烫鹅: Goose cooked in hot oil until the skin crisps, a Hakka dish sold in the old town's restaurants.
• Swan eggs 天鹅蛋: Golden fried dough balls rolled in sugar and sesame, sold on sticks along the main street.

Tips for visiting Luodai Ancient Town

• Come on a weekday: at weekends day-trippers from Chengdu pack the main street.
• Start at the Guangdong Guild Hall, the grandest of the group, then the Huguang and Jiangxi halls with their opera stages; the lanes off the main street are far calmer.
• Try Hakka specialities such as oil-scalded goose and fiery 'heartbreak' jelly noodles (shangxin liangfen).

Nearby

• Chengdu Giant Panda Base 成都大熊猫繁育研究基地 20 km
  Watch giant pandas munch bamboo and tumble about among the trees
• Wenshu Monastery 文殊院 30 km
  An active Buddhist monastery of incense-filled courtyards, a teahouse and vegetarian food
• People's Park & Heming Teahouse 人民公园与鹤鸣茶社 30 km
  Bamboo chairs, jasmine tea and roving ear cleaners in Chengdu's favourite park
• Kuanzhai Alley 宽窄巷子 30 km
  Three restored Qing-era lanes of courtyard gateways, teahouses and Sichuan snacks
• Wuhou Shrine & Jinli Street 武侯祠与锦里 30 km
  Cypress-shaded halls honouring Three Kingdoms heroes, with a bustling snack lane next door
• Du Fu Thatched Cottage 杜甫草堂 30 km
  Bamboo groves and plum blossom where Du Fu, China's 'Poet-Sage', once lived

Also within 30 km: Weiran Flower Sea, Longquanyi 蔚然花海 (under 10 km), Peach Blossom Homeland, Longquanyi 桃花故里 (10 km), Northern Zhou Stele of King Wen 北周文王碑 (10 km), Ming Tombs of the Princes of Shu 明蜀王陵 (10 km), Wufengxi Ancient Town 五凤溪古镇 (10 km), Sansheng Flower Villages 三圣花乡 (20 km).

On the map

Open Luodai Ancient Town on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.

Learn more

• Wikipedia
• Wikipedia (Chinese)