Kuanzhai Alley 宽窄巷子Kuānzhǎi Xiàngzi

Why go to Kuanzhai Alley

Kuanzhai Alley is a set of three parallel lanes (Wide Alley, Narrow Alley and Well Alley) lined with grey-brick courtyard houses and gateways in the old heart of Chengdu. Restored and reopened in 2008, they are now full of teahouses, snack stalls, craft shops and bars. It is busy and commercial, but a pleasant place to graze on Sichuan street food and watch the city stroll by.

The story

In 1718 the Qing court stationed a garrison of bannermen in Chengdu and walled off a 'Little City' (Shaocheng) of soldiers' lanes and courtyard homes for them and their families. Its walls came down in the early 20th century, but these three lanes survived; they were called hutong, the northern word for alley, until they were renamed after the fall of the Qing.

What to see at Kuanzhai Alley

• Wide Alley 宽巷子: The northernmost of the three lanes, once called Xingren Hutong. Restored courtyards now hold teahouses, cafes and craft shops.
• Narrow Alley 窄巷子: The middle lane, once Taiping Hutong, with grey-brick houses, carved doorways and courtyard restaurants hidden behind them.
• Well Alley 井巷子: The southernmost lane, once Ruyi Hutong, with a more local, everyday feel than its two neighbours.

How to visit Kuanzhai Alley

Walk the three lanes from north to south, Wide, Narrow and then Well, which takes an hour or two at a grazing pace. Duck through the gateways into the courtyards, where teahouses and cafes are calmer than the street. Come in the morning to enjoy the buildings before the crowds arrive, and again in the evening if you want the atmosphere and the lights.

How to get to Kuanzhai Alley

Kuanzhaixiangzi station on Metro Line 4 is a few minutes' walk from the lanes. People's Park is about 15 minutes' walk to the south-east.

Where to stay

Stay in central Chengdu, around Tianfu Square and Chunxi Road, which are within walking distance or a short metro ride (Line 4 stops at Kuanzhaixiangzi). That keeps the lanes, People's Park, the metro and the Wenshu district all close.

What to eat

• Sanda pao 三大炮: Sticky rice balls flung into soybean flour and drizzled with brown sugar syrup, a Chengdu street snack.
• Tianwo (sugar-coated dough balls) 糖油果子: Golden fried dough balls glazed in sugar and sesame seeds and sold on sticks; the 'swan egg' name is a local joke.
• Dandan noodles 担担面: A classic Chengdu noodle dish in a chilli-oil, sesame and pepper sauce, usually with minced pork.

Tips for visiting Kuanzhai Alley

• Come in the morning for quieter lanes; evenings, weekends and holidays are packed.
• Duck through the gateways: courtyard teahouses and cafes are calmer than the main lanes.
• Pair it with tea in People's Park for an afternoon of old Chengdu.

Nearby

• People's Park & Heming Teahouse 人民公园与鹤鸣茶社 under 10 km
  Bamboo chairs, jasmine tea and roving ear cleaners in Chengdu's favourite park
• Wuhou Shrine & Jinli Street 武侯祠与锦里 under 10 km
  Cypress-shaded halls honouring Three Kingdoms heroes, with a bustling snack lane next door
• Du Fu Thatched Cottage 杜甫草堂 under 10 km
  Bamboo groves and plum blossom where Du Fu, China's 'Poet-Sage', once lived
• Wenshu Monastery 文殊院 under 10 km
  An active Buddhist monastery of incense-filled courtyards, a teahouse and vegetarian food
• Chengdu Giant Panda Base 成都大熊猫繁育研究基地 10 km
  Watch giant pandas munch bamboo and tumble about among the trees
• Luodai Ancient Town 洛带古镇 30 km
  A Hakka market town on Chengdu's edge, with grand guild halls built by Qing-era settlers

Also within 30 km: Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Chengdu 平安桥天主教堂 (under 10 km), Tomb of Wang Jian 王建墓（永陵） (under 10 km), Shuijingfang Distillery Site 水井街酒坊遗址 (under 10 km), Jinsha Site Museum 金沙遗址博物馆 (under 10 km), Early Buildings of Sichuan University (Huaxiba) 四川大学早期建筑 (under 10 km), Wangjianglou Park 望江楼 (under 10 km).

Trips with Kuanzhai Alley

• Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong: a week in the Aba mountains 6 days · Chengdu, Songpan and Jiuzhaigou

On the map

Open Kuanzhai Alley on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.

Learn more

• Wikipedia: Chengdu